We have a few boards of RB2011 and RB3011 rack mount.
The boards lose power with the slightest move of the connector (not sure if it's a problem of the power adapter or the mainboard connector).

Anyone else?

SOLUTION: Just press to insert the connector a little further.

Make sure the cable is pushed in to the maximum and then the cable is secured via the provided metallic clips on the back of the case

The boards lose power with the slightest move of the connector (not sure if it's a problem of the power adapter or the mainboard connector).

are you using the original power adaptors? i've faced similar issues with a non-bundled power brick with a different device (ip camera), and it turned out that the connector (plug/socket) to have different internal diameters: 5.5mm/2.1mm vs 5.5mm/2.5mm
this 0.4mm gap results the same behaviour as you described.

Hi there, we have the same problem. The original AC adapters bundled with the latest models are not fully compatible and have little bit different size. We are powering them also through eth1 Poe from Ubiquity. BTW we use 24V 1A Ubiquity Poe adapters that transmit power not only on 4-5 and 7-8 pairs but also on data pairs. It works but none of our distributors can confirm if it can cause problems in the future.

I find the adaptors from devices such as the HAP AC work better. If you look at them the standard adaptors have a straight jack plug where the HAP AC ones have a right angled connector (also 1.2A) and the jack seems to be marginally longer on these.

Correct, the "new" PSUs from mikrotiks (the one with sharper edges) does not fit the 2011 and 3011 properly - the hole in the casing is a tad to little.
The old PSU (with rounder edges) fits fine.

Please see the pictures of the old PSUs that fit perfectly; and the new ones that do not fit correctly

@normis what alternative PSUs can we use to power rb3011?

@normis what alternative PSUs can we use to power rb3011?

the specs say the box will run between 10 V - 30 V voltage and consumes up to 10W.
so the original 24V 1.2A supply actually provides twice as more than required.

all in all you can pick a simple 12V or 24V power supply (which is a commodity) with at least 15W output rating, and you'll be fine.
my approach is to open the box, put a proper meanwell RS series switching mode power supply, like this here:

http://tapegysegaruhaz.hu/spd/90686/Tap ... 4V-0-0625A

then add an IEC60320 C14 socket to the box (there is an actual cutout for this with properly placed screw holes) and do the wiring internally by using the unpopulated power headers on the board. this is a way cleaner approach and looks more "professional" than playing with the supplied power bricks. but it takes at least 30-40 minutes to make this happen and requires dismantling the device and even some soldering.

Any standard Mikrotik 24V 0.8A Power Supply (18POW) works great unless you need the eth 10 poe output.
But we need it so we currently power RB3011 through eth1 using Ubiquiti POE-24-30W that provides 24VDC @ 1.25A 4-Pair powering on Pins 1, 2, 4, 5 (+) and Pins 3, 6, 7, 8 (-) which seems to work fine. Has anybody tested Mikrotik 24HPOW 24V 1.6A if it fits with rb3011 ?

These sort of pins usually do encounter connecting issues, be it in this case or any other device of what i have experienced. Have you checked the connector port.

Can you be more specific please. I would also like to receive an answer from Mikrotik. Why did you change these PSUs?

The solution is toooo easy, you just have to press it a little further.

See video:
https://goo.gl/photos/wr1vGThkBR3Bz2Ps7


Sorry i didn't notice earlier

It's not the solution. These latest PSUs are defective. Full stop

Explanation of how to insert the connector in an image:




You may like it or not, but that worked for me.